The Cozumel Drift
Your E-Newsletter from Scuba Shack & Village Tan Kah
Cozumel, Mexico 
August 2003
 
Welcome to the 4rd edition of The Cozumel Drift, featuring the latest news from Scuba Shack, Village Tan Kah and the island of Cozumel.  We hope everyone is having a great summer!  Things get a little quiet on the island in September and October with kids going back to school and folks up north enjoying their nice fall weather.  But fall can be a great time to visit Cozumel -- prices are at their lowest (read on for tips on finding the best airfare from your area), the island is not crowded so there's no waiting for tables at your favorite restaurants and you can actually walk down the sidewalks without encountering masses of people from cruise ships.  And, of course, there are fewer divers on the reefs...that's always a bonus!    
 
We'd like to take this opportunity to send a big THANK YOU to Bade Millsap from Ocean's Window in San Antonio, Texas, for his glowing review posted on Rodale's Diver to Diver message board.  Bade and his cousin, Dax, and their families stayed at the Village in July and had a great time!  You can read his entire trip report at http://www.scubadiving.com/members/tripreports.php?s=2115
 
Thanks also to our many friends, both divers and non-divers, who make this newsletter a fun project!  Please send us your ideas or write up an article yourself and send it to us...we'll probabaly include it in our next edition.  Muchas gracias, amigos!!!
 
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IN THIS EDITION:
 
USAir Adds Flights to Cozumel...Good news for Philadelphia and Charlotte!
Getting here from Cancun...It's soooooo easy now!
Cozumel Cuisine...What the heck is that stuff? 
Island Driver's Ed...Don't "wreck" your vacation -- know the local rules of the road
Bulletin Board...What's new at The Shack and The Village?
Your Letters...Our guests and divers are the greatest!
 
 
  USAIR ADDS FLIGHTS TO COZUMEL!
 
USAir announced it will begin service from Philadelphia direct to Cozumel starting in mid-December.  Initially, this flight is scheduled for Saturdays only, but that's better than not at all!  Additionally, USAir's Saturday service from Charlotte, NC will begin daily flights in February, 2004.  
 
Try these sites for some good airfare deals...
 
MLT Worry-Free Vacations  www.worryfreevacations.com
If you can pack and go without a lot of notice, MLT has the lowest fares we've found -- but this time of year they only fly into Cancun.  But it's soooo easy now to get to Cozumel from Cancun that these prices are definitely worth the trip!  Here's some samples of what is available this week:
From DFW        $159.99 + tax (Sept. 14 & 21)
From Detroit     $179.99 + tax (Aug. 23, 30, Sept. 6, 13)
From St. Louis  $$219.99 + tax (Aug. 20, 23 & 30)
 
"Red Hot Deals" are posted every Monday night and can be booked online through the following Thursday.  You can sign up to be notified every Monday when the Red Hot Deals are posted...we did! 
 
 Hotwire    www.hotwire.com 
We are still finding great deals on this website, from just about any city in the U.S.  Try several different departure dates and you can probably find a good bargain.  We've found that if you choose travel dates on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday, the rates are lower.  
 
 
Cancun to Cozumel...It's Easy!  
 
Since so many of the best airfares this time of year involve flying into Cancun, we are often asked for tips on how to get here from there.  The trip from Cancun is very easy now (and cheap), thanks to the new airport bus service.  Upon your arrival in Cancun, as you exit Customs with your bags, go outside and continue around the main terminal to your right.  The buses to Playa del Carmen will be at the end of this building.  You can walk inside the terminal (where it's cooler) almost all the way down to the end.  Look on your left for a booth selling RIVIERA BUS TICKETS.  Buy tickets to Playa del Carmen, they will tell you when the next one leaves.  The buses run about every 1 to 2 hours, so you won't have to wait very long.  Tickets cost $8 USD each.  The ride to Playa takes a little less than 1 hour and the new buses are really nice, they will probably show a movie or a TV show in English during the ride.  
 
Once you arrive at the bus station in Playa, take a right when you exit the station and then you'll see the Caribbean down the hill.   Walk down to the ferry pier and buy your tickets.  You will pass several booths that sell tickets.  We now have 2 ferry companies -- the blue and white Mexico ferries, which are the big, fast boats you are probably familiar with -- and a new ferry service called Ultra Mar, which is a bit slower.  But if you miss the Mexico ferry...who cares if the boat is a little slower!  Both ferry services are the same price -- tickets are $8 per person one way or a little bit less if you buy a round trip ticket. 
 
 
 
"Try It, You'll Like It!"
A guide to the foods of Cozumel
 

You can find some great food in Cozumel, and we're not just talking tacos!  But if you're not familiar with some of the foods and ingredients here, you might miss out on Cozumel's best and most popular dishes.  

 

Key ingredients of many Yucatecan dishes are sour orange juice (from a particular kind of green, thick-skinned orange found mainly in the Yucatan) and achiote, a spicy paste made from grinding achiote seeds with garlic, black pepper, cumin, oregano, cinnamon cloves and vinegar. 

 

Here are some popular dishes that you'll find in many Cozumel restaurants.  

 

Cochinita Pibil -- The jewel of Yucatecan cuisine, this scrumptious dish is made by marinating a suckling pig in sour orange juice, ground achiote and other spices, wrapping in banana leaves and slow cooking overnight in an outdoor oven.  Usually served with marinated onions on a torta (soft bread roll) or tacos.  This is truly a taste treat.  

 

Huevos Motulenos -- A substantial breakfast of crisp fried tortillas topped with black beans and fried eggs, then topped with a rich tomato sauce, green peas, ham and crumbled cheese.

 

Poc Chuc -- Slices of tender pork marinated in a mixture of sour orange juice and spices, usually served with pickled onions.

 

Sopa de Lima -- Rich chicken stock with shredded chicken meat, onions, mild peppers and tomatoes, then seasoned with fresh lime juice which brings out the flavor of the broth.  Fried corn tortilla strips are added to the soup just before serving. 

  

Pozole -- A hominy chowder with shredded pork seasoned with oregano and other spices and served with radishes, shredded cabbage and onions.  Los Otates on 15 Avenida between 3rd and A.R. Salas has great pozole. 

 

Aguas Frescas -- Made with purified bottled water, these thrist-quenching fruit drinks are made by pureeing fresh watermelon, cantaloupe, pineapple or whatever other fruits are available, then blending with sugar and water and pouring over ice.  Please note that all restaurants in Cozumel use purified bottled water and ice. 

 

Huaraches -- A larger version of a taco, but it's in the shape of a shoe --  like the woven leather sandals.  Eat them wrapped around whatever you like, such as black beans, chicken, pork, sausage, potatoes, mushrooms, cheese, etc.  Try Huraraches at Chilangos on 30 Avenue between Salas and 3rd.

 

Tacos al Pastor -- Pastor tacos are a special kind of taco filling made from pork that’s been cut into thin strips, marinated in adobo sauce, then skewered on an upright spit and cooked over a low flame.  The thin slices are piled on soft tacos, topped with onions, cilantro -- and in Cozumel, chunks of pineapple.  Try out tacos al pastor at Los Otates or at Los Sera’s on 30 Avenida and Morelos. 

 

Empanadas -- These are tortillas folded over a filling of your choice, often cheese (queso) or chopped fish, then deep fried to a golden crisp.  

 

Tacos -- If you're looking for the crunchy folded over kind filled with hamburger, cheese, lettuce and tomato, you won't find it in Mexico. Here, the word "taco" refers to fresh, soft corn tortillas wrapped around any kind of filling you can imagine.    

 

Tortas -- Sandwiches made on soft bread rolls are served everywhere and are one of the most common pick-up breakfasts for Cozumelenos.  The roll is usually swiped with a paste of black beans and then stuffed with anything, such as chicken, ham & cheese, chopped pork or beef, or even seafood.   Try the tortas at El Sitio (it's just a stand on a vacant lot) on Calle 2 between 5 & 10 Ave, across from the taxi dispatch or at Super Hit, corner of 30 Ave and Calle 15.

 

 

Driving in Cozumel
 
What's the big deal, you ask, about driving in Cozumel?  It's not a big deal until it's YOU in the ambulance saying goodbye to your vacation and to lots of money as well.  We don't have super highways here and we only have a few stoplights, but Cozumel is a busy little city nonetheless, with lots of cars, taxis and mopeds...not to mention all the pedestrians.  For those of you who are not familiar with the streets of Cozumel, we've put together some information that may help you avoid a problem or accident...and maybe just keep you from getting lost!  But hey, this is an island...how lost can you get!  

 
FINDING YOUR WAY...
Streets going to or from the waterfront (east-west) are called "Calle".  Calles are numbered starting at the downtown Plaza (or square).  Streets to the north of the square are even numbered.  Streets to the south of the square are odd numbered.

Streets going parallel to the waterfront (north-south) are called "Avenidas".  Avenidas are numbered in increments of 5.  Beginning at Melgar on the waterfront, the next Avenida is 5, then 10, then 20 and so on. 
 
Example #1: If you are on Ave. 20 and Calle 3, then you should know that you are 4 blocks from the waterfront and approx. 2 blocks south of the center of town.
 
Example #2: Ave 35 and Calle 8 would place you 7 blocks back from the waterfront and 4 blocks north of the center of town.
 
Avenidas usually have the right of way.  Calles have stop signs at all intersections with Avenidas.  So if you are headed to or away from the waterfront, make sure to STOP AT ALL STOP SIGNS and PROCEED WITH CAUTION.   EVEN IF YOU HAVE "Right of Way", PROCEED THRU AN INTERSECTION WITH CAUTION.

ALL STREETS ARE ONE WAY, except for the major thoroughfares such as Melgar, 30 & 65 Avenues, 11th Street, and Juarez east of the gas station to the other side of the island.

For example:  Ave. 10 runs north.  Ave. 15 runs south.  Ave. 20 runs north

Same with Calles:  Calle 2 runs toward the water.  Calle 4 runs away from the water.  Calle 6 runs toward the water.


SPEED LIMITS
In Town Speed Limit is 30 km per hour / 20 miles per hour
On Open Road the Limit is 50 km per hour / 30 miles per hour.

There is one main road around the island. This road is 2 lanes and is not a high speed road.  There are lots of dips and bumps and occasionally a TOPE (a tope is a speed bump).  Please b
e aware that there are probably more road obstacles here than you are used to, such as kids playing, bike riders, mopeds, tourists not paying attention to where they are going, dogs, etc.  Drive defensively and be aware of your surroundings.
 
SCOOTER SAFETY

Your chances of having an accident while driving a scooter in Cozumel are high.  If you do not have experience driving a scooter, BE EXTRA CAUTIOUS !!!  The type of scooter used for rentals in Cozumel is very low to the ground with very small wheels, which don't handle well on wet streets or unpaved roads.  Especially watch out for loose gravel or sand.

Wear a Helmet!  Don't leave the rental shop without a helmet for yourself and one for any passenger you might have. It may be hot and uncomfortable, but it can save your life!  You may also find yourself being stopped and fined by a policeman for not using a helmet.  Don't think that the rules are the same for tourists as for the locals...they are not.  Locals can put a family of 5 on a scooter, drive by a cop and he won't even look twice at them.  However, one tourist on a moped without a helmet could mean a hefty fine.  Don't ask why...that's just the way it is. 

Do not expect other drivers to respect you while driving a scooter.  Taxis and large trucks can be a major hazard.  Just the force of wind from their vehicle passing you can cause problems.  If you don't already have experience on a motorcycle or scooter, please be extra careful driving on the streets & roads of Cozumel.  There are large numbers of tourists injured every year while driving scooters. 

Have A Safe And Wonderful Vacation In Cozumel !

 
 
Bulletin Board...
 
Construction continues on the 2 new rooms at Village Tan Kah.  The walls are finally up and they are starting to take shape.  We've had a lot of interest in tese new rooms and are already starting to take reservations for them.  We'll keep you posted on their progress...everybody wants to be the first ones to stay there!  So far, here are the names that have been submitted for the new rooms:  Hibiscus, Tortuga, Coconut, Monkey, Barracuda, Moon, Seahorse, Amor and Dolphin.     
 
For our animal loving friends, you'll be happy to know that Peso (the dog) and Euro (the cat) are still happy and healthy...thanks in part to many of you!  Thanks to all of you who brought down treats and food for them and for the loving care you give them.  They are truly lucky to have found a home at The Village! 
It looks like Carnaval this year will be Feb. 18 - 24.  Fat Tuesday is on Feb. 24, that's when we have the biggest parade and the party goes on all night.  Village Tan Kah has already started taking reservations for that week, but still have vacancies left.  They won't last long, so let us know if you want us to hold a room for you. 
 
Your letters...
 
Re:  The Swim
I am writing to thank you for posting Paul Ellis’s story. It struck such a chord with me. Although I am swimming a marathon distance for a different reason (http://www.kataubert.chariteam.com) the mission is the same. To do something meaningful in a way we enjoy, to gain attention for a significant problem. Like Paul, I am not “just” a diver, but also a long distance swimmer. Although I’ve never attempted anything like this before, although I do swim very long distances, I am confident I can do this. And I can’t wait to try.  Another common thread. Paul will be 61. I am 57.  So I hope that you will forward this to him, as one “Active Senior” (“Let’s hear it for Gray Power”) to another…who frankly, is proud of the fact that she can not only outswim a person half her age, or less…but has gained the wisdom of years to put that skill to a good use.  Paul, I wish you well in your swim. Amazing effort. I wish I could be there to see it.  Who knows. As great as the diving was in Cozumel, I just might come back to do it!!
K. Taubert

Ed. - If you missed our Newsletter featuring the article by Paul Ellis about his swim from Cozumel to Cancun, please let us know and we'll send it to you.

Scuba Shack Kudos
We have not stopped talking about the beauty we saw nor the friendly and expert divers who were our guides.  Gustavo was a great dive master search out the most interesting plant and animal life for us.  Also, Bob did a great job integrating Jess and my qualifications with the "fun" part of the experience.  Both Jess and I have recieved our "open water diver" cards from PADI and are anxious for our next dive experience.  Be assured, when we return to Cozumel (and we have all agreed we will return) we look forward to seeing and diving with you again.  Again-thank you for the special memories.
Am Cook
 
Hi everyone!  We miss you guys so much up here in Birmingham!  Not a day goes by that we do not think about the wonderful diving we had with you guys in Cozumel and at the Scuba Shack.  You guys are just great!!!!!  We are planning on coming back down whenever we can get away from our clinic.  We have been very busy which is a good thing, but we are at the clinic about 12 hours every day!  Whew!!!!  We need a Diving break!!!! :-)  You guys (especially Abel and Benjamin) made my first REAL diving experience really GREAT, I will never forget it!  We can not WAIT to come down again.....real soon! Thanks again  for such a wonderful experience!  We WILL be back!!  
Donna Goodwin

 

SCUBA SHACK  (011-52-987) 872-4240

robertac@prodigy.net.mx
On the beach between Casa del Mar & Park Royal Hotels
 
ROBERTA'S DIVE ECO-COZUMEL  (011-52-987) 872-4187
www.RobertasDIVEECOcozumel.com
Calle 3 between the waterfront and 5 Ave.
 
VILLAGE TAN KAH   (011-52-987) 872-4240
www.cozumel.net/bb/village_tankah
In the south hotel zone, directly across the street from Scuba Shack
       
 
TECHNICAL STUFF:
This newsletter is produced by Anne Thornton and Roberta Cwiertnia.  Sponsored by Roberta's Dive Eco-Cozumel, Scuba Shack & Village Tan Kah. We welcome all contributors, although we reserve the right to cut and paste.  To be removed from this mailing list, simply send an e-mail with "Remove From Mailing List" on the subject line to: robertac@prodigy.net.mx