The Cozumel Drift
Your E-Newsletter from Scuba Shack & Village Tan Kah
Cozumel, Mexico 
September 2003
 
 
Welcome to the 5th edition of The Cozumel Drift, brought to you by your friends at Scuba Shack and Village Tan Kah on the island of Cozumel.  September 16 is Mexican Independence Day.  We had one of the best celebrations here than we have had in recent years!  We've studied our history and included in this edition a very brief lesson on the Mexican Revolution from Spain.  This month we're also featuring a great trip report from Nelda Harris who joined our fearless leaders, Robert and Roberta, on an expedition to see the whale sharks at Holbox Island, and another history lesson by guest writer, Dave Hood, on the C-53 "wreck".   
 
We have received inquiries from many of you about what you can do to help or contribute to the community of Cozumel.  So to that end, we are starting a monthly feature of some worthwhile charities and organizations that are making a positive contribution to the island.  Our first installment focuses on a very worthwhile project called The Chrysalis Group.  Read on to find out how you can help some special kids in Cozumel.    
 
Thanks to our many friends for your support and for making this newsletter such a fun project!  Please keep sending us your ideas and articles....we'd be honored to feature you in our next edition.  Muchas gracias, amigos!!!
 
 
IN THIS EDITION:
 
Travel Deals to Cozumel... They're out there, you just have to search for them!
The Great Whale Shark Adventure... It's a BIG fish story!!!
History Lesson:  The C-53... Did you know it was once a U.S. minesweeper?
The Chrysalis Group... Your help can send local kids to school
Mexican Independence Day...Viva Mexico!!! 
The American Library...3,000 books looking for a home
The Scuba Shack Skinny...What's up at The Shack and The Village?
 
 
  Travel Deals to Cozumel
 
Last month we told you that USAir was adding flights from Philly and Charlotte, which is a big help for many of you.  Now, we just got news that American Airlines is beginning service once again from DFW!  We're still trying to find out exactly when this service will begin, but we have friends who have booked a direct flight on American from DFW to Cozumel in March 2004.  Maybe some of our friends in Dallas can look into this for us...???
 
As many of you have seen, starting yesterday all of the major carriers are slashing there prices for the coming months !!!  Check them out and see what you can find.  Maybe we will get to see you really soon ! 
 
We've also come across a few new sites for travel bookings online to share with you:
 
Side Step    www.sidestep.com
This site searches all the other travel sites to find the lowest airfares.  It might direct you to another travel booking site, but just go with it and keep looking.  This is where our friends' found their direct flight to Cozumel on American Airlines.  Check it out and let us know if you have any luck finding good airfare from your town.
 
MLT Worry-Free Vacations  www.worryfreevacationscom
If you can pack and go without a lot of notice, MLT has the lowest fares we've found -- but this time of year they only fly into Cancun.  But it's soooo easy now to get to Cozumel from Cancun that if the fares are low enough it makes the trip from Cancun worth it.  "Red Hot Deals" are posted every Monday night and can only be booked online through the following Thursday.  You can sign up to be notified every Monday when the Red Hot Deals are
posted...we did! 
 
Hotwire    www.hotwire.com 
We are still finding good deals on this site, from just about any city in the U.S.  You have to try several different departure dates and to find the best fares.  We've found that if you choose travel dates on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday, the rates are lower.  
 
www.onetravel.com
This site looks like just about all the others, but we found some cheap fares here. 
 
Finding cheap airfare is almost full-time job.  If YOU find a new site for cheap airfare...please share it with us...THANKS!
 
 
 
 
Giant Giants -- the Whale Sharks of Holbox 
By Nelda Harris
 
Every scuba diver dreams of an encounter with a whale shark, the largest fish and shark found in the world's oceans, but when Roberta invited me to not only see but swim with the whale sharks, I had my doubts.  Hey, I'm from Missouri, and "Show Me" is the state motto.  Weighing up to 15 tons with a possible length of 46 feet, I knew that this was not a trip to see Flipper the friendly dolphin.

We started our day in Cozumel, caught the ferry to Playa Del Carmen where we rented a car and started our journey to the tiny island of Holbox (Hole-bosh), about 2 1/2 hours from Cancun.  With Roberta behind the wheel (aka Mario Andretti), our trip was swift.  After arriving in the sleepy village of Chiquita, we boarded another ferry bound for Holbox where our group of seven stayed at a very comfortable hotel.

Anticipation was the name of the game as we met our boat the next morning at 5:30 AM and set off in search for the gentle giants of the seas that the natives call "Dominoes".  After a lengthy ride, the whales were spotted.  Whale sharks are filter feeders and feed close to the surface of the water.  With mouths reaching up to four feet in width, they were a sight to behold and I had a brief flashback to Jonah and the Whale tale.  As we all ran into each other trying to get a good look at these magnificent creatures, they swam directly to the boat.  Maybe they were trying to calm us down by saying, "It's ok, I know I'm big, and I'm going to stay around so that you all can see me.  Just relax!"

We entered the water two at a time (strict guidelines govern these encounters) with instructions NOT to touch their dorsal fins.  The sharks seemed oblivious to the tiny human creatures that accompanied them on their swim.  Their white bellies were contrasted with their backs, which were grayish scattered with white dots, thus the name "dominoes."

Our whaleshark encounter was a special memory and, like the animal itself, a very powerful one.  The experience is hard to describe in words, it's one of those "you had to be there" kind of things.  I felt as if I had been given a precious gift that was to be savored for a lifetime.  Needless to say, this girl from Missouri will be forever grateful for the encounter.

Thank you Roberta and Roberta for a great time!

Nelda Harris,
Former Missourian, now a Cozumel resident


(Just in case you're keeping track, there are 87 topes (speed bumps) between Playa Del Carmen and Holbox.  I counted them all!)
Ed. -- Scuba Shack will begin escorting groups from Cozumel and Cancun to Holbox Island from mid-June thru mid-September 2004.  Please let us know if you are interested in joining us and we'll send you detailed information on the trip. 
 
 
 
Dive Report:  The C-53
By Dave Hood
 
The C-53 wreck dive has become a popular dive in Cozumel since it was sunk in 2000.  Lots of divers visit the site every day, but not many of us actually know the history of the ship.  Originally named The USS SCUFFLE, the vessel was an Admirable-Class minesweeper for the U.S. Navy.  Built by Winslow Marine Railway and Shipbuilding in Seattle, Washington, it was launched in August 1943.  The USS SCUFFLE displaced 795 tons, length was 184’; beam was 33’; draft 9’; speed 15 knots, powered by twin diesels; crew was 104 officers and enlisted.

 

She swept the French Frigate Shoals, Eniwetok, Lingayen Gulf, Zambales, Subic Bay, & Brunei Bay, earning a Navy Unit Commendation, a Presidential Unit Citation and 5 battle stars.  After the war she swept Tsushima Strait and the Ryukyu Islands in Japanese waters.

 

She was decommissioned April 1946 and placed in reserve (mothballs) in Orange, Texas.  In 1962 she was transferred to Mexico and renamed FELIPE XICOTENCATL C-53, operating out of Vera Cruz on fishery and anti-drug running patrols.  She was retired from Mexican service in 2000 and later that year sunk as a reef off of Chankanaab National Marine Park in Cozumel. 

   

Now a popular dive site in Cozumel, the dive boats tie up to a float tethered to the wreck’s stern.  The vessel sits perfectly upright on her keel in 80' of water.  Numerous holes have been cut into her hull and decks to make it easily and safely accessible to divers.  When she settled at the bottom one of her rudders broke off.  Both steering motors and the after-steering wheel were left in place.  While ladders, piping and electrical rat's nests remained, the hulk was stripped of hatches and furnishings.  It's difficult to judge what a particular compartment may have been used for.  There is not much to distinguish which was the mess decks, the galley, berthing, wardroom. etc.  One exception was the crews’ head.  We made note that like most of the restrooms in Cozumel, the toilets are missing their seats!

 

Often you can find hundreds of lobsters under the hull and millions of glassy sweepers inside -- they look like a beam of silvery light.  Enough holes have been cut into the hull to allow light to enter every compartment.

 

For more info on scheduling a dive to the C-53, please contact Roberta and the Scuba Shack crew at robertac@prodigy.net.mx

             

Ed. -- Dave included some fantastic photos with this article, but unfortunately we don't have the room here to include them.  If you'd like to see them, send us an email and we'll contact Dave for you.
 
 
 
The Chrysalis Group
 
Visitors to Cozumel often ask us how they can help the local people of the island.  Well, did you know that in Mexico, families are required to pay the equivalent of $50/year to send each child through the obligatory 6th grade?  Further education typically costs a family approximately $150 US per year per child.  And did you also know that in Mexico, $2000 pesos (roughly $200US) is considered a good monthly wage?  So sending each child to seventh grade and beyond costs a family almost three-fourths of what one parent can earn in a full month of hard work.

 

The brutal fact is that for struggling families, and especially for single-parent mothers, food must come before education. Many children of such families -- particularly the girls (who some parents do not feel need as much education as the boys) are forced to drop out.  These children frequently disappear into one of the "invisible jobs" available in prime tourist locations like Cozumel. Best case scenario for smart but under-educated children like these: jobs as busboys, maids and the like -- hard-labor jobs with little free time, very low pay and no hope. Worse case scenario: thievery or prostitution.

 

So, a newly-formed local non-profit organization stepped in to avert such a tragedy.  They called themselves the Chrysalis Group--a wonderfully evocative name for an organization that fosters the emergence of so many promising children into a world of hope and opportunity.

 

The idea for Chrysalis first began to take shape in 1996 at what had been originally planned as a low-key social get-together designed to introduce English-speaking women living on the island to each other. It soon became clear, however, that several of the women had come to the meeting with a more serious agenda in mind than an afternoon of iced tea and gossip.  All had witnessed the heartbreak of seeing promising youngsters forced to give up their dreams for a better life and join their parents in a vicious circle of low-paying, dead-end jobs.  And they all agreed they couldn't just stand by and watch so many wonderful kids miss out on decent jobs because of their lack of education.  Before long, the group began meeting regularly. Gradually a plan of action emerged--beginning with filing the paperwork to incorporate as a Mexican non-profit -- a process that took nearly two years.

 

Meanwhile, they grappled with other pivotal issues.  Primary among these was setting up the mechanisms for identifying and assisting promising students. But finding the bright, hard-working kids that most needed help was easier said than done.  When they first went to the schools and told them what they wanted to do, they paraded out all the "stars" for them.   But the Chrysalis women could see right away that these weren't the children that needed assistance the most.  Fashionable clothing and, particularly, good shoes, were a dead give-away.  Finally, they hooked up with a primary school teacher and, later, a guidance counselor who understood the group's goals and objectives and, to this day, continues to help them identify families with children that could benefit from a little help from some friends.

 

Another key challenge was to come up with some good fund-raising ideas.  A highly successful garage sale campaign was launched, newsgroups were utilized to drum up sympathy for the cause and to get the word out.  Soon, vacationers from all over the world were arriving in Cozumel with their suitcases stuffed with school supplies or used clothing.  The school supplies would be used by the children in the program. The clothes would be sold in what soon became a weekly yard sale.  For the past three years the Chrysalis Group has also raised money by setting up a booth downtown during busy Carnaval week where volunteers sell exotic feathered Mardi Gras masks to carnival revelers.  In addition, the group has received a number of greatly appreciated cash donations (now tax deductible, thanks to their recently acquired non-profit status).

                                            

Then there was the task of physically getting the supplies to the kids and their parents.  Members of the group purchase all the school uniforms and shoes themselves and even negotiate good discounts with the stores.  Many days are spent buying, sorting and delivering supplies, uniforms and shoes to the current crop of young scholars.  Each student receives 2 school uniforms, 1 pair of black dress shoes, 1 pair of tennis shoes, plus books and supplies.  And a tremendous amount of time each summer goes to studying school transcripts and talking with parents, teachers and counselors to identify students that would most benefit from the help. 

 

Although the group currently helps approximately the same number of girls as boys, it's a constant struggle to keep female enrollment in the program up.  The group members explain that girls and women are greatly valued in the community, but only as wives and mothers.  Many parents just don't believe girls need that much education to make babies and take care of a family.  The boys tend to be put forward first, no matter who is the better student in the family.  The Chrysalis Group strives to reach the girls as early as possible, before they've given up hope.  For the boys and girls that Chrysalis has been able to help so far, the future looks bright.  Now more than 300 boys and girls are involved with Chrysalis thanks to all the generous donations of supplies and money--and the hard-work of the Chrysalis volunteers.  Additional assistance is always welcome!

 

Sponsorship Program  A one-time contribution of $50 per elementary student or $150 per Jr. or High School student will provide assistance for one year of education.  Download a sponsorship form from the Chrysalis website or email them for more information (website address is at the end of this article). 

Ongoing Used Clothing Sales   If you have any extra space in your luggage, please bring used clothes. Clothes are sold at a nominal price to provide the local residents with inexpensive clothing while raising funds for school supplies. 

School Supplies / Small Donations   Chrysalis purchases the school supplies for students.  Check their website for current needs or, if you don't have space, a check or cash ($10 - $20) will help with purchases.

Drop Off Locations   Used clothing, school supplies & financial donations may be dropped off at Cozumel Putting Course, located downtown at Calle 1 Sur and 15th Avenue, or at Plaza Sol Jewelry Store, in Villamar Plaza just behind Fat Tuesday's.

Want to get involved? Visit the  Chrysalis Website, www.islacozumel.net/support/chrysalis

 for information on sponsoring children or donating used clothing and school supplies.

 

 

September 16...Viva Mexico!

The Story of Hidalgo’s Call for Mexican Independence

 
Shortly before dawn on September 16, 1810, Father Miguel Hidalgo made a monumentous decision that revolutionized the course of Mexican history.  Within hours, Hidalgo, a Catholic priest in the village of Dolores, ordered the arrest of Dolores’ native Spaniards. Then Hidalgo rang the church bell as he customarily did to call the indians to mass. The message that Hidalgo gave to the indians called them to retaliate against the hated native Spaniards who had exploited and oppressed Mexicans for ten generations.

Although a movement toward Mexican independence had already been in progress since Napoleon’s conquest of Spain, Hidalgo’s passionate declaration was a swift, unpremeditated decision. "Mexicanos, Viva México!" Hidalgo told the Mexicans who were the members of New Spain’s lowest caste.  He urged the exploited and embittered Mexicans to recover the lands that were stolen from their forefathers.

The plan for revolution did not originally focus on the manpower of the Mexicans.  Rather, they sought to avoid military confrontation by convincing army officers to sever their allegiance to the Spaniards.  By claiming loyalty to the defeated King Ferdinand, the Indians aimed to establish Mexico as an independent nation within King Ferdinand’s Spanish empire.  The Spaniards who claimed authority under Bonaparte’s rule would be driven out of Mexico.

Hidalgo had close ties with this revolutionary group. Approaching sixty years of age, Hidalgo was a well-educated and courageous humanitarian who was beloved and greatly respected by Mexicans.  He was sympathetic to the Indians, which was unusual amongst Mexican clergymen.  Hidalgo taught Indians to plant olives, mulberries and grapevines and to manufacture pottery and leather.  His actions irritated the Spanish viceroy who, as a punitive measure, cut down Hidalgo’s trees and vines.

His decision to call the exploited groups to revolution completely changed the character of the revolution. The movement became a bloody class struggle instead of a shrewd political maneuver.  When Hidalgo called the Indians to action, he tapped into powerful forces that had been simmering for over three hundred years.  With clubs, slings, axes, knives, machetes and intense hatred, the Indians took on the challenge of the Spanish artillery.  When the Indian and mestizo forces, reached the next village en route to Mexico city, they acquired a picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron saint whose image was of a woman of color. The Virgin of Guadalupe, who was indigenous to Mexico, became the banner of the revolutionary forces on their path toward Mexico City and the expulsion of the Spaniards.

Hidalgo later regretted the bloodbath he had incited with his fateful cry of Dolores.  When he made his hasty decision in the pre-dawn hours of September 16, he had not foreseen the mass slaughter of Spaniards.  Before the revolutionary troops descended upon Mexico City, Hidalgo retreated with only a few associates to Dolores, where he would be executed by the Spaniards only a year later.  Despite his ambiguity toward the violent class struggle that was the Mexican revolution, Hidalgo is still revered as the father of Mexican independence.

Every September 15 at 11pm in Mexico City, the President rings the historic liberty bell that Father Hidalgo rang to call  the people the people to revolution, then gives the "El Grito" (The Cry).  He shouts "Mexicanos, Viva Mexico" and the crowd echos back, establishing the tradition which has been solemnly followed every year thereafter.  And it is echoed by the governor of each state throughout the country.  After the last "Viva México" is cried, the president waves the flag, rings the bell, and the National Anthem is sung.  The next day, there is a civic ceremony, and a military parade.

 

The actual day of September 16 is similar to Fourth of July in the United States.  There are rodeos, parades, bullfights and horseback rider performances.  The people feast and decorate statue in memory of Father Hidalgo.  In Cozumel, we have parades, pageants and shows in the town square and an impressive fireworks display. 

 

So, now you know a very brief history of Mexico's struggle for independence and how they celebrate it.  Viva Mexico!

 

 

 

Scuba Shack Skinny...

It's been a hot and steamy September so far, but the diving has been terrific.  Visibility is high and the water is calm and warm...this time of year underwater is the best place to be!   
"Peso the Dog" and "Euro and Cat" and happy and healthy.  Next month we'll be featuring an article on Cozumel's Humane Society for our animal loving friends (you know who you are)!  The new hotel addition at Village Tan Kah is coming right along and Roberta is just itching to start decorating!    We'll let you all know what we decide to name the rooms in our next newsletter.   
 
Congratulations to our newest certified diver, Debbie Pogrelis, Roberta says she was one of her best students...way to go Debbie!
 
Ramblings...
 
I want to thank those of you who go out of your way to bring us stuff we can't get here.  When you live for years without things like chocolate chips, pickles, or anything sugar-free (to  name only a few things we miss, and not to mention the car and boat parts we can't get), you quit taking them for granted and try not to think about them...but geez, man...a nice dill pickle would sure taste good sometimes!  Especially those yummy garlic ones.  Did you know that there really isn't even a word in spanish for pickle?  They are called "pepinos en vinaigre" or cucumbers in vinegar.  But, please, don't start packing your suitcases with pickles without checking with us first.  I got myself into a real "pickle" once when I started asking all my friends to bring me chocolate chips.  Well they all brought me some, then told all their friends to bring me some...I now have about 20 lbs. of chocolate chips taking up half my fridge -- I keep making cookies with them but they seem to be multiplying!
 
More ramblings next month.  Until then.....
 
Hasta Luego, Amigos!!!! 
 
================================================================================
 
SCUBA SHACK  (011-52-987) 872-4240
robertac@prodigy.net.mx
On the beach between Casa del Mar & Park Royal Hotels
 
ROBERTA'S DIVE ECO-COZUMEL  (011-52-987) 872-4187
www.RobertasDIVEECOcozumel.com
Calle 3 between the waterfront and 5 Ave.
 
VILLAGE TAN KAH   (011-52-987) 872-4240
www.cozumel.net/bb/village_tankah
In the south hotel zone, directly across the street from Scuba Shack
       
TECHNICAL STUFF:
This newsletter is produced by Anne Thornton, sponsored by Roberta's Dive Eco-Cozumel, Scuba Shack & Village Tan Kah. We welcome all contributors, although we reserve the right to cut and paste.  To be removed from this mailing list, simply send an e-mail with "Remove From Mailing List" on the subject line to: robertac@prodigy.net.mx